Recently I visited Mullae in Seoul. It is a district situated at the metro station of the same name. Mullae itself has been designated by the city as a so-called arts village. Apparently this tries to capitalize on the fact that in recent years a number of artists have set up their studios in the area and that a couple of live venues opened up. These venues cater mostly to an alternative scene, with some punk and metal concerts taking place around Mullae. Not to forget the occasional Drum'n'Bass party.

Nonetheless, most of the area still consists of small-scale factories and workshops, many of which seem to produce steel goods. Even though many of these buildings look rather dated they still seem to be in use. The most tourists could be found in a small street in a part of Mullae, which was situated closer to the subway station. There you could find a few cafes and restaurants, which pretty much looked like what you would expect from a slowly gentrifying area.This includes a place serving excellent salmon Bibimbap. Too bad I ruined it with too much spicy sauce.

Of course it remains to be seen what kind of impact the nomination as an arts village has on the Mullae area. It definitely brings in a more diverse crowd of people. Maybe the manufacturing businesses get driven out? I am not familiar with the rental prices or ownership arrangements in the area. It also remains to be seen if the influx of new people is really large enough to substantially change the area.Another visit in five years to observe how Mullae will have changed up to then might prove interesting.

Later on that day I went to a concert in Mullae. It took place in a big hall, which is normally used as a storage place or a factory. Thanks again to Patrick from DOINDIE for putting me on the guest list. While talking about it: Check out the DOINDIE website before you go to South Korea or if you are already here! That is if you have the slightest interest in Korean independent (rock) music.